Drizzly start, but sunny intervals throughout the day.
Three short climbs en route to Bayeux.
With only 66km to cover today and arrival at the ferry port not due until 22:30, I'd planned to spend a few hours in Bayeux. First the tapestry (actually an embroidery). As anyone who visits it next year in the British Museum will see, it's an exciting and revealing storyboard, depicting the Norman conquest of England nearly 1,000 years ago.
The story is told from the perspective of William and his brother, the Bishop of Bayeux. We see Edward pledge to pass the throne to William "the bastard" and then we see Harold renege on that promise , claiming the crown for himself. We're shown the construction of a fleet of boats and the Norman superiority and bloody triumph at the place now known as "Battle", near Hastings.
I read a little about the various theories as to where the tapestry was made: Canterbury, Wilton, Winchester or even here in Bayeux. Also that the colours (surely much brighter a millennium ago) come from dyes derived from 3 plants: woad (le pantel), madder (la garance) and weld (la gaude). All new to me.
Next stop the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire Baron Gérard (MAHB) located in an ancient former episcopal palace. Amongst their paintings I was particularly struck by the work of Gustave Caillebotte.
The Michelin guide leads with their collection of porcelain. Most of it was not at all to my taste, but I did spot this jug.
For me the most unexpected and interesting exhibit was the perfectly preserved episcopal courtroom. A beautifully proportioned chamber of finely crafted wood and marble.
After lunch I found the coast about 12km north east at Asnelles.
Round to Courseulles and a succession of small towns and commemorations of the Normandy Landings on June 6th, 1944 on the beaches codenamed "Gold", "Juno" and "Sword".
A long teabreak at a bar/tabac at Lion-sur-Mer turned out to be an entertaining stop. The bar is situated well back from the shore and the expensive establishments, right across from the large church. As 6 o'clock approached the bell ringing started up and the clientele had to raise their voices to shouts to be heard. By this time the terrace had filled up with locals, some in work wear returning from their sites (yes on a Saturday), others with dogs or spouses. Each new arrival doled out handshakes and kisses to a good portion of those present. I left at 7pm and apéro hour was going strong.
A slow meander along the shore still busy with swimmers, children and cyclists. Round to Ouistreham where I lingered over oysters and razor clams until time to board the ferry.
Excellent treatment at the port: cyclists boarded the ferry 10 mins before the first motor vehicles.
