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Normandy tour Day 1: Ouistreham to Putanges

Saturday 23 August
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A lovely dawn seen from our expertly chosen breakfast table on the ferry.

Here at Ouistreham, where the Orne flows into the sea, it was surprisingly cool, though of course 7am temperature in France is 6am in English terms.

Very atmospheric to begin with on the wide and misty Orne. Up soon was the famous "Pegasus" or Bénouville bridge which was destroyed in June 1944 by special forces arriving by glider just before the Normandy landings.

After this the route was quite boring for a stretch -- a typical railway path sunken into the landscape, nothing much to see.

I came up for air from the path at Thury Harcourt, and found a well-equipped town on a little hill, where I spent a good hour visiting the baker and grocer, and reading in a café.

I learnt later that Thury Harcourt features prominently in Michel Houllebecq's 2019 novel Seratonin, which I'm told anticipates the rural French "Gilet Jaune" movement. One for the reading list. 

With the saddlebag stocked for lunch I pushed on up the "Suisse Normande" path. After Clécy the route left the path and set out on more interesting (and hilly) lanes.

Lunch up at the Roche d'Oetre where there's a good looking cafe and various trails and footpaths to explore the area.

Some more climbing after lunch on quiet rolling lanes up to Rabodanges, then over and down to Putanges, an attractive mini-resort on the Orne. The municipal campsite, by the river was basic, but with hot showers and at a cost of 5.90€, more than fair. Dinner at the friendly Hotel Lion Verd was very good and also excellent value.

After 95k of road following very little rest on the ferry, sleep closed in fast.

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