Early start, on the road at 7.30 after a couple of pieces of bread and the remains of yesterday's fresh goat cheese.

The route today was mainly quiet, except on the approach to the Loire. Rather boring countryside, gently rolling, though a few small hills early on. One magical bucolic moment passing a mare and her skinny foal, a brown and white pinto, the foal gamboling and actually jumping on the spot. Reminded me of James Baxter in Adventure Time, for some reason.

Saw some large olive trees for sale, in the 400 € range. I think I heard there's a lot of unethical practice in that business and I've no idea how you'd satisfy yourself on the provenance of one of these, let alone on its health / chances of thriving.

Had to make a minor detour around the Château de la Lorie as my planned route was to take me through its grounds, and I was looking forward to having a gawp. But the sign was clear that doing so was "strictement interdite". I wonder if a French solo randonneur would also observe or would disregard? I will ask one.

I noted that today's roadside religious "signes ostensibles" were plain crosses, quite stylish in design, in contrast to the macabre crucifixes which I was seeing yesterday.

Elevenses of croissants and a superb Breton apple at the "plan d'eau" at Marans. Very difficult at this time of year to find an apple which has lasted well for so long.

This lost lane between Becons-les-Granits and St Augustin-des-Bois got me off the busier road south

but I did have to lug my bike over this broken bridge.

On southwards, generally downhill to the Loire.

 It's such a big river that you barely discern the valley. As you look across flat fields it's hard to believe that the mighty river is just 300m away.

Campsite by the river at the junction of the Louet tributary at Chalonnes-sur-Loire where there are several islands, bridges and forks of the river. Afternoon coffee and supper at the festive and funky Guinguette de Louet, a magnet for canoers, cyclists, boule players, assorted holiday makers and cocktail enthusiasts. No reason on earth to move from this spot. 

What a contrast to last night's campsite at Craon which, though immaculate and well-equipped, was almost deserted. Craon had a decidedly down at heel feel with numerous closed-down businesses and premises "à louer".

Here on the Loire, by contrast, business seems to be booming.