This was going to be a short and easy half-day today, but it turned out to include a tough afternoon.

All the way to beyond Reyrevignes was rolling lanes, no-one about, real back lanes.

My route took me past the remains and memorial to the Nazi massacre and destruction of the hamlet of Gabaudet in June 1944, where 50 people were killed and 71 deported, mainly to Dachau.

It's heartening that an important memorial like this is so well maintained. We need all the help we an get to remember where belligerent extremism leads.

At the general store at Assier I was able to stock up for lunch, and then continued on to climb over the ridge and down to Figeac. All by lunchtime. So far so good.

I made a little tour of this pretty town and had a little pre-picnic refreshment in the Place Champollion, watching the world go by, and anticipating a leisurely lunch and an afternoon nap.

Wrong! It turned out the campsite I'd identified just outside the town was in fact closed for the season. Some local picnicers I questioned thought there must be some technical problem with standards ("les normes" ).

But first things first. Lunch. Simple pleasures: cheese, tomato, foie gras...