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Bristol to Cévennes: Day 11 Rochechoart to Brantôme

Thursday 5 June
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Coming out of Rochechoart through a tunnel of trees was a view out over the park which I was going to cross. 

A lot of densely wooded land today some of it being cultivated. In between Saint Mathieu and Champniers-et-Reilac there was a long line of these round bundles by the side of the road. 

In Champniers-et-Reilac itself I saw this arresting poster from an organisation called the "Revolution Permanente". Scary name. And don't all revolutions end up as endless cycle of purges and repressions? 
Near the Grand Estang de St-Estèphe there were a couple of extraordinary "cabins". This one was the most striking. 
Front garden flowers at La Maladrerie. 

Nontron is a good sized town , very attractive and lively, known for 500 years for its knife making. 

I had a plan to visit the Atelier Nontronaise to look at the famous knives and cutlery being made.

 Unfortunately you aren't allowed to take pictures, but I was able to view workers in the two main areas. First a small group of 3 or 4 woodworkers turn large pieces of timber into handles of various types. Then a larger workshop with about a dozen stations on each of which a worker assembles and decorate complete pieces; i.e. rather than being a probuction line, each worker carries out the full set of tasks. These days, since 1992, the steel blades are made by Laguiole in Aveyron. 

Whilst waiting for the atelier to open after lunch I spent an hour in a friendly brasserie opposite the Hôtel de Ville and had a refreshing cucumber salad. This was the entrée in the menu du jour and was just what I needed, given my earlier boulangerie activity. So I passed on the day's "plat" of tripe in Caen style. 

After Nontron there was 10 km of fast smooth new cycle path (the V92 I think).
I followed that most of the way to St-Pardoux-la-Riviêre. 
From there it about 25km to the stage end at Brantôme, which after a few days in the country is a re-entry to the world of glamorous tourism, where every cave in the hillside is either a tapas bar or a foie gras boutique. 
The whole day was spent riding on tiny lanes or bike paths, and I hardly saw anyone else except in towns and villages. The countryside was a mixture of woodland and small fields of pasture. 
As I suspected, this stage, though longer than yesterday and with more elevation (about 1,100m), was composed of bigger hills, with more enjoyable downhill opportunities for a bit of a rest. 

My campsite is out of town, quite a climb uphill. Hopefully the confit of duck for dinner will get me up there. 

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