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Bristol to Cévennes - Day 1: St Malo to Pontorson

Tuesday 27 May
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Arrived St Malo around 8.30am, pretty much on schedule. We left Portsmouth late but clearly during that time they were able to fix the technical problem which had caused the boat to run slow earlier in the day.

There was more jolly chitchat with other cycle tourists as we gathered on the garage deck to retrieve our bikes from the pile of maybe 40 bikes. No racking at all is used, bikes are just propped together  in a line of about 6, perhaps 7 deep, all leaning up together. Not an adequate system as components and accessories can get dislodged or even broken. Had a good chat with a Swiss couple in their eighties who are on a trip back home from Sweden ( via the South Downs ). They haven't felt the need to go electric just yet.

Despite having had a good breakfast on board (particularly the apple juice and fresh grapefruit) I stopped for elevenses at the Cancale oyster market. 

I got a sampler of 4 types raised with different techniques and for varying ages. 

Much preferred those with a fresher sweeter flavour rather than for example the "pied de chaval", which I found toodark, chewy and earthy, and the market vendor characterised as nutty.

After a slight inland wiggle, passing impressive fields of cabbages, a long stretch following the huge "Bay" with its multiple rocky out crops and islands, with the Mont Saint-Michel itself just a tiny triangle in the distance.


Loads of restaurants and retailers specialising in oysters and other fruit de mer. "Si t'aimes la mer, t'aimes la musette " read one blackboard. The musette turns out to be a small crab from “the Baie".

A stretch of wiindmills along the coast, mainly converted to residences now.


The soil here looks like ash or cement, pale grey and dusty. I wonder if it's rich or whether the farmers are using a lot of additives?

Saw some huge delicious-looking cabbages being harvested and some cabbages under cloches. Quite a few of the workers looked south American.



Lovely route up to the Mont St Michel up farm roads on the west side of the canal, the tourist facilities all being on the east side.

Cross the barrages and then south on the east (touristy) side to Pontorson.

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