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Breakfast from Fijnbakkerij Booren (another recommendation), then out of Diksmuide past the Dodengang (Trench of Death), the only preserved Flemish trench from WW1 - raised up with earth and sandbags rather than dug down, as this is at sea-level.
Battling the Belgian 'mountains' again to Veurne and Koksijde then into France, and a final slog into the wind to Dunkerque ferry port and a moment of empathy from the Police aux Frontieres - me: "Oof, le vent du nord...", officer: "Oui, c'est l'enfer."
South to Wevelgem to return to the Vlaanderen Fietsroute, then along the cobbled canal towpath to Wervik, and weaving in flat agricultural land to Ieper (Ypres). Visited some of the many small and beautifully-kept WW1 cemeteries: Zandvoorde, Spoilbank, Larch Wood Railway Cutting, Kemmel Chateau.
Alas, major repair work was underway on the Menin Gate so had to divert around. Out of Ieper and some climbs, including a "Flandrien Challenge" Gildestraat complete with start line marked on the road. Also up the Kemmelberg, although not the cobbled version used in the Gent-Wevelgem race each year.
Flatlands again to Diksmuide but with fierce headwind (described as the Belgian "mountains"). Rode for a while with 50-60 other cyclists, yellow-vest marshals front and back with loud whistles to warn the peloton and send approaching cars to the side; chatted to one rider who explained they are all pensioners and do 40-50 km (with lunch stop) every Wednesday from Diksmuide.
Rode on a little further to the German WW1 cemetery at Vladslo. Fine statues of grieving parents by Austrian artist Kathe Kollwitz, who lost her own son in the conflict.
Dinner at t'Belfort restaurant - really good frites - thanks to the recommendation from the B&B host.
Riding through the Vlaamse Ardennen now, more up and down but still agricultural. Shaken awake by the Bosberg cobbled descent (raced in the other direction as part of the Omloop het Nieuwsblaad each February). Dropped into Ronse for breakfast and coffee in the Grote Markt by the obelisk.
Alas, immediately followed by a 100-metre part-cobbled climb out again. Through Kluisbos forest - the highest point on this route (142 m) - before dropping to flatland and return to that headwind., through Kortrijk and another detour from the Fietsroute to reach Roeselare for a visit to Koers, the Museum van de Wielersport.
Fairly basic accommodation on the previous night, no coffee and emergency speculaas for breakfast. Early start and 45 km before stopping for koffie times 2 in Hoegaarden. On past the brewery (part of the InBev empire) then stopped in the village of Meldert to watch the Whit Monday procession for local Saint Ermelinda.
Small cobbled climb then through beautiful Meerdalwoud.
My planned route mets its Waterloo near Groenendaal due to a large road/rail construction site - geographically appropriate for the site of Bonaparte's defeat just a little further south. On through beautiful forest south of Brussel and to Goik. Interesting accommodation: loft in an old barn, WC in a shed, and an al fresco shower.
Into Overpelt to a little bakery open on Sunday morning with a dozen locals queueing for bread and pastries, rijstaart making the perfect cycling breakfast food.
Onward eastwards, briefly over the border into the white village of Thorn, then turning south into the centre of Maaseik - bric-a-brac stalls busy on the middle day of their Whitsun market. Continuing near the Maas/Meuse river and parallel Zuid-Willemsvaart canal. On near to Maastricht then up the first climb in four days: 50 metres and 16%, and the start of more rolling countryside, through cobbled Tongeren to Heers.
Made in the Cotswolds. Published by Éditions Système D Ltd.
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