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Cycling in romantic Franconia: the Tauber-Altmühl Radweg

5 Dec 2024
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The Tauber and Altmühl River Cycling Route in Franconia, also known as the Tauber-Altmühl Radweg, is regarded as one of the most captivating cycling routes in Germany. Its glowing reputation stems from the stunning landscapes of two river valleys, including the rocky terrain of the Franconian Jura, which gives the Altmühl River a distinctive charm. Adding to the "romantic" atmosphere of the Tauber-Altmühl route are Franconia's medieval towns, among them the famous Rothenburg ob der Tauber, which consistently ranks first in the poll of Germany's Top 100 Attractions. It was in this delightful setting that we spent a long June weekend.

Rothenburg is the perfect starting point for a cycling trip through Franconia. The city is stunning - whether viewed from a drone’s perspective or while strolling through its charming streets. It shines during the day, but its nighttime ambiance is equally captivating. The first impression is also remarkable: arriving from the train station, you reach the well-preserved ring of high defensive walls and enter the city’s golden age through a majestic gate. We recommend organizing your visit to Rothenburg as we did—spend the first night in Nuremberg, take a morning train to Rothenburg, and dedicate the rest of the day to exploring the city on foot. There are a dozen or so key landmarks and places worth seeing, and when combined with the medieval atmosphere of Rothenburg, it truly deserves at least a full day of your time. For the best experience, consider hiring a local guide to bring the city’s rich history to life.

The cycling route along the Tauber and Altmühl rivers follows an unusual pattern. It first runs upstream along the Tauber River and then leads downstream along the Altmühl. The route begins in Wertheim, near the confluence of the Tauber and Main Rivers. From there, it heads toward the magnificent Rothenburg, the highlight and the highest point on the route. After leaving this Franconian gem and crossing the nearby European Watershed, the Altmühl River takes over, guiding cyclists all the way to its confluence with the Danube in the town of Kelheim. Regardless of where you start the journey, the route begins with an uphill ride along one river, followed by a gentle, enjoyable descent along the other after visiting Rothenburg. The two sections differ in proportion—the part along the Tauber River is about 100 kilometers, while the section along the Altmühl spans roughly 250 kilometers.

It’s hard not to notice that most cycling paths in the Altmühl Valley Nature Park are not paved roads but gravel paths made of fine, delicate aggregate. This is somewhat contrary to what we see on the best cycling routes in Europe. However, it’s undeniable that the gravel sections blend beautifully with the rocky landscape of the valley. As we learned, this isn’t the final state but rather a result of limited budgets in local municipalities, which cannot afford a large-scale investment in cycling surfaces. Gravel, however, comes with its drawbacks - greater rolling resistance for bike tires, dust in the air, and higher annual maintenance costs to ensure true cycling comfort.

Among the geological attractions of the Altmühl Valley is the Burgstein rock, a massive limestone tower whose fascinating story is told through its numbers. The limestone it is composed of was formed approximately 135 to 154 million years ago, at a time when southern Germany was located at the latitude of today’s Florida, and the Atlantic Ocean was just beginning to form. Even more intriguingly, about 5 million years ago, this rock was shaped by the waters of the Danube, which only changed its course to the modern one during the Ice Age - around 150,000 years ago - leaving its former valley to today’s Altmühl River. Burgstein is now one of Bavaria’s most important geological sites and, of course, a picturesque backdrop for a souvenir photo.

The well-preserved medieval stone bridges are among the yet another places to see along the route. You’ll find them in places like Herrieden and Ornbau, one of Bavaria’s smallest towns. Though Ornbau is much smaller than Herrieden, its 17th-century bridge over the Altmühl River is longer and leaves a far greater impression. Built from thick sandstone blocks, its central span is adorned with an 18th-century statue of Saint John of Nepomuk. It is even referred to as a gem of the Upper Altmühl Valley. The bridge leads to a town with a preserved medieval urban layout, encircled by a ring of 13th-century city walls. Another of the beautiful medieval bridges that have survived over the Altmühl River can be found later in the route near Eichstätt, close to the village of Pfünz. This 15th-century structure, blown up by Austrians in 1800, was rebuilt in 1822 and remains one of Bavaria’s most valuable stone bridges.

An interesting detail - and a minor attraction in itself - was the way we traveled to Franconia. Given the considerable distance (1,100 kilometers) from Gdańsk to Franconia, as well as our shared desire to rest along the way, we chose to travel with bicycle by train. We first boarded the well-known Berlin-Gdynia Express from Gdańsk to Berlin, and from there, switched to Germany’s high-speed train, the ICE, heading to Nuremberg. Booking a ticket for the "German Pendolino" early guarantees both a reasonable price and a very comfortable journey. This generation of ICE trains offers up to eight bike spaces in a dedicated compartment located in the first car - some with horizontal hooks and others (on the ends) with vertical ones to leave more room for passengers passing through the bike area. It's a completely different experience compared to what our own Pendolino offers. The next day, we reached Rothenburg with a short local connection through Ansbach.

This was our third cycling trip through Franconia, and each time we discovered a slightly different side of this region. The Main River Cycling Route is one of the most beautiful in Germany, passing through popular cities like Bamberg and Würzburg, which a few years ago opened our eyes to cycling tourism in Germany. Our second trip, along the Hohenzollern Route, introduced us to a very local, quiet, and provincial Franconia, one that is almost untouched by tourists. Now, the Tauber-Altmühl Cycling Route felt... somewhere in between. On one hand, it featured Germany's most beautiful and popular city; on the other, it offered an intimate atmosphere in a picturesque, Jurassic landscape. Of these three trips, all were worth the effort and the visit, but today, the Tauber-Altmühl Radweg takes the top spot on our Franconian podium.

Find more German cycle routes on our website.

And check out my other articles on cycle.travel:

- Ciclovia Alpe-Adria - Austria & Italy
- Loire by bike in France
Rhine Cycle Route in Switzerland

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