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Reivers and C2C Loop, June 2025

Saturday 7 June
by DavidM
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A loop across the Borders, Lakes and North Pennines, starting and finishing at Newcastle Station. West along the Tyne / Hadrian’s Cycleway as far as Wylam, then turning north to join The Reivers Way east of Matfen. Stopped in Matfen for lunch at village shop/café (excellent cheese scones), then west across farm lanes to Bellingham. Lovely wild country but quite a lot of farm gates on this stretch which make progress a bit slow. Tea and excellent carrot cake in the former workhouse in Bellingham, then up past Kielder. As it was late afternoon, we stayed on the fast main road rather than use the lakeside path, and stayed with the on-road route rather than the forestry track through Kielder Forest, very little traffic and good tarmac so we made good time. Up to the pass and then into Scotland, turning south towards Newcastleton. Overnighted at The Grapes in Newcastleton, excellent stop, landlord and staff very helpful, secure bike storage, good food and beer, warm clean rooms with good showers. Fellow reivers from Holland going the other way were also staying there - there's not much accommodation on this part of The Reivers, but the Grapes is good.

Second day south towards Carlisle, very up and down for the first ten miles or so to Bewcastle, before turning towards flatter roads and the Solway Firth. Into Carlisle from the north, via the attractive village of Rockcliffe, lunch at John Watt and Son's teashop (excellent toasted sandwiches and tea). Out of Carlisle south, following the river for a long stretch, before turning west at Hesket Newmarket to cross Caldbeck Common. Sharp squall from the West made the common hard going, but dramatic views up to the Back o’ Skiddaw. Round Bassenthwaite as the squall cleared, through Cockermouth and to Great Broughton, overnighted at the Broughton Craggs Hotel, good bike store and nice staff, but the grand old house is in need of a bit of a refurb.

Third day out to the coast, and along the old railway line path to Whitehaven to meet up with the C2C. Coffees and cake at The Harbourmaster, excellent café overlooking the strangely orange (washout from old iron working) water in the harbour. C2C needs no write-up, but on a day when early rain gave way to clear blue skies, Loweswater, Crummock Water and Whinlatter Forest were all looking brilliant. Old Keswickian chip shop open late and doing good business on Sunday afternoon. East out on the old railway line to Threlkeld, skipped the northern dogleg to Mungrisdale, arriving Penrith early evening, where a streetparty on the permitted route at Newton Rigg were kitted out with cowbells to serenade passing C2Cers! Overnighted at The Shepherds Inn at Langwathby, brilliantly comfortable stop, good food and beer, landlord very helpful and hospitable, turning out early to see us on our way the following morning.

Early start on fourth day to be sure of our train, good weather and a gentle tailwind taking us over the Hartside, Garrigill, Nenthead, Allenheads and Crawleyside climbs (we stayed on the road rather than take the Rookhope off-road section), with glorious high speed drop offs in between. Hard work on the uphills, but vistas are clear, roads are good, and it’s epic cycling. Fell in with a Saddle Skedaddle group on the way up from Allenheads, very jealous of their escorting van with lunch! From Crawleyside onto the Waskerley Way, not paved but very fine gravel suitable good for tourers, so after a morning of climbs, we were quickly and easily down to Consett, Gateshead, across the High Level Bridge and back to the train.

290 miles over 4 days, 5800m of climbing. Both routes, Reivers and C2C are absolute classics, C2C a bit more showy (Lakes/Pennines), Reivers rather more remote and secret. Memorable stuff.

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