West Yorkshire & East Riding day 1 (31 July 2023)

Wakefield to Halifax. With great trepidation after looking at the weather forecast, I set out on another cycling tour. Rail ticket purchased and accommodation booked in advance, I decided to set out and hoped that the rain was not as heavy as predicted. Spoiler alert: it was.

But first, the tribulations of booking a bicycle reservation on our fragmented railway network, and the minor annoyance of being forced to set up an account with LNER just for one bicycle space from Kings Cross, only to find the reserved space to be imaginary – maybe coach J was on another train at platform 9¾? Nevertheless, a helpful staff member unlocked the old-fashioned luggage van, and released my bicycle at Wakefield to allow me to set off.

This tour was to take in some of Cycling UK’s British Cycle Quest checkpoints (www.cyclinguk.org/british-cycle-quest). The quest itself is not particularly exciting, but it does draw you to cycle in parts of the country that you might not otherwise visit. So, firstly out of Wakefield to Sandal castle, then a long grind uphill in the steadily increasing rain through High Hoyland and Upper Denby before losing all the hard-earned elevation by dropping into Holmbridge, followed by the really hard slog up to the barely-visible Holme Moss transmitter checkpoint – alas, the 16% gradient and fierce wind near the top forcing me to get off the bike and push the last few hundred metres to the ridge. Back down again, and turning north along a sawtooth route to Halifax, rain continuing for most of the afternoon. Out of town to Shibden Park, once home to Anne Lister (1791-1840), before the overnight stop. Ms Lister died when travelling in Europe but is buried in Halifax Minster (which, alas, has limited opening hours).

Vlaanderen Fietsroute day 8 (1 June 2023)

Breakfast from Fijnbakkerij Booren (another recommendation), then out of Diksmuide past the Dodengang (Trench of Death), the only preserved Flemish trench from WW1 - raised up with earth and sandbags rather than dug down, as this is at sea-level.

Battling the Belgian 'mountains' again to Veurne and Koksijde then into France, and a final slog into the wind to Dunkerque ferry port and a moment of empathy from the Police aux Frontieres - me: "Oof, le vent du nord...", officer: "Oui, c'est l'enfer."

Vlaanderen Fietsroute day 7 (31 May 2023)

South to Wevelgem to return to the Vlaanderen Fietsroute, then along the cobbled canal towpath to Wervik, and weaving in flat agricultural land to Ieper (Ypres). Visited some of the many small and beautifully-kept WW1 cemeteries: Zandvoorde, Spoilbank, Larch Wood Railway Cutting, Kemmel Chateau. 

Alas, major repair work was underway on the Menin Gate so had to divert around. Out of Ieper and some climbs, including a "Flandrien Challenge" Gildestraat complete with start line marked on the road. Also up the Kemmelberg, although not the cobbled version used in the Gent-Wevelgem race each year.

Flatlands again to Diksmuide but with fierce headwind (described as the Belgian "mountains"). Rode for a while with 50-60 other cyclists, yellow-vest marshals front and back with loud whistles to warn the peloton and send approaching cars to the side; chatted to one rider who explained they are all pensioners and do 40-50 km (with lunch stop) every Wednesday from Diksmuide.

Rode on a little further to the German WW1 cemetery at Vladslo. Fine statues of grieving parents by Austrian artist Kathe Kollwitz, who lost her own son in the conflict.

Dinner at t'Belfort restaurant - really good frites - thanks to the recommendation from the B&B host.

Vlaanderen Fietsroute day 6 (30 May 2023)

Riding through the Vlaamse Ardennen now, more up and down but still agricultural. Shaken awake by the Bosberg cobbled descent (raced in the other direction as part of the Omloop het Nieuwsblaad each February). Dropped into Ronse for breakfast and coffee in the Grote Markt by the obelisk.

Alas, immediately followed by a 100-metre part-cobbled climb out again. Through Kluisbos forest - the highest point on this route (142 m) - before dropping to flatland and return to that headwind., through Kortrijk and another detour from the Fietsroute to reach Roeselare for a visit to Koers, the Museum van de Wielersport.

Vlaanderen Fietsroute day 5 (29 May 2023)

Fairly basic accommodation on the previous night, no coffee and emergency speculaas for breakfast. Early start and 45 km before stopping for koffie times 2 in Hoegaarden. On past the brewery (part of the InBev empire) then stopped in the village of Meldert to watch the Whit Monday procession for local Saint Ermelinda.

Small cobbled climb then through beautiful Meerdalwoud.

My planned route mets its Waterloo near Groenendaal due to a large road/rail construction site - geographically appropriate for the site of Bonaparte's defeat just a little further south. On through beautiful forest south of Brussel and to Goik. Interesting accommodation: loft in an old barn, WC in a shed, and an al fresco shower.