After the success of the Loire cycleway, and the increasingly popular Rhône route, a route following the River Seine was surely a no-brainer.
From Le Havre to Paris, the 340km (210-mile) route follows the meanders of the sinuous Seine. That adds an extra 100km (60 miles) onto a direct route, but crucially, means almost no climbing.
The Seine is a very different river to the slow-flowing Loire. From the Channel to the first lock just beyond Rouen, it’s a tidal, commercial waterway where you’ll regularly see ocean-going ships. Beyond there to Paris, you’ll still see plenty of freight traffic, tankers, and barges with the batelier’s little Renault or Citroën perched on the front. It may not have the châteaux of the Loire valley, but it’s still rich in heritage – Rouen itself, of course, and the ruins of Jumièges Abbey nearby.
The Seine doesn’t stop in Paris, and neither does the cycle route. You can continue another 100km to Champagne-sur-Seine along EuroVelo route 3. Eventually the intention is to follow the Seine valley further upstream to Troyes, but much of this is still awaiting path construction, and we wouldn’t suggest it as a cycling holiday yet.
Le Havre to Paris would be a very easy week. If you’re arriving on the ferry, perhaps plan it as a four-day tour to allow time for the train back. You don’t have to do the whole route, of course – the 225km (140 miles) from Le Havre to Vernon would make an enjoyable long weekend ride, and you’d see the best of the scenery.
Not hard in the slightest – there’s barely a hill to trouble your pedals. The route is perhaps a little more fiddly than (say) the Loire, with more frequent turns, so expect this to reduce your daily distance a little.
Any bike will do, subject to the usual strictures about reasonably robust tyres to cope with the few gravel path sections.
Yes: it’s cycle route V33. You’ll see distinctive orange ‘Véloroute du Val de Seine’ signs in the Seine-Maritime département. After Paris the signage is shared with with EuroVelo 3.
SNCF run regular through trains between Le Havre, Rouen and Paris. Happily, these aren’t TGVs but the older Intercités stock, which have good bike accommodation. You don’t even need a reservation on this line, but turn up in good time for your train, and make sure getting to the ferry on time isn’t contingent on one particular train having enough free spaces!
For British cycle tourists, a ferry service has long operated between Portsmouth and Le Havre, but this has an uncertain future. At present, your best bet is to take the ferry to Caen (Ouistreham) and cycle 50 miles along the coast towards the Seine. This, of course, lands you on the wrong side of the river! Bikes are permitted to cross the towering Pont de Normandie, but you might find it more hospitable to head inland on the south bank of the Seine, crossing on the ferry at Quillebeuf or Jumieges.
Made in the Cotswolds, England. Published by Éditions Système D Ltd.
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Ride reports & comments
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Did this route(ish) last Summer. Mostly had a good time after finding my way out of Le Havre. There and Rouen are getting a lot of work on cycle routes so those should be easier. If you don't fancy Paris there is a good route from Giverney to Gisors on the Avenue Verte to Dieppe. The garden of Monet at Giverney is rather nice but very crowded. It's all rather an amazing mix of old and new.
Tip: If you're camping, French cemeteries usually have a fresh water tap or pump. French campsites are good value.
Wondering why the route follows the V16 across the Vexin rather than carrying on along the river on the V33?