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A good breakfast of local goat cheese and nuts before setting out on the final stage over Mt Aigoual (1,557m) to Notre-Dame-de-la-Rouvière in the Val d'Aigoual.
I'd arranged to meet my friend Craig, at whose house I'll be staying for a few days, for a picnic at the observatory at the summit. In other words I'd persuaded him to also cycle up the mountain from the other direction to give me a hero's welcome at journey's end. Happily he's game enough to have accepted.
The day started with a significant descent from Le Pompidou before starting the 1,150m climb back up.
First a tiny scenic road ("narrow and winding" warned the road sign) which wound steadily up to the Col Salidès, crossing into the Gard département and back into Lozère a couple of times during the morning.
And then another descent before a steeper and more exposed section up to Cabrillac. I'd fantasised finding a boulangerie and café, but nothing like that on offer beyond a tap for water in the short strip of houses making up the hamlet. I joined a trio of older road cyclists in club jerseys in the shade of a large tree for a short pause and several handfuls of cashews.
On previous visits to the Cévennes I'd heard about the return of wolves to the region and about the fearsome "guardian" dogs which as a result are sometimes used to protect sheep.
It's a tricky and devisive subject, as a shepherd isn't permitted to kill a wolf, and may also be loathe to use a guardian dog which might attack people as well as wolves. Cycle tourists, for example.
Then the final 8km to the top. First the radio masts, then the old marker stone, and finally the observatory.
Craig had also made good time to the summit and after a substantial lunch we rolled all the way down to Valleraugue behind a fragrant logging truck, stopping briefly in Valleraugue. We noted some new developments in the town, including the Cafe du Siècle which is being refurbished by the owners of the small pizza place on the other side of the river.
Then a short hill up to the village of Notre-Dame-de-la-Rouvière, the official terminus of this 23 stage Périple Diagonal.
The whole route from St Malo:
ridewithgps.com/routes/50090678
Some stiff wind coming down from the mountains overnight, tugging at the tent. A fresh start with jersey zipped up and fingers and toes a little numb at first.
A day of glorious touring, sunny with a cool breeze. I only started feeling the heat after 11am on the third and final climb.
Yesterday was a dramatic entrance to the Cévennes National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The (albeit flyblown) passage over the Col de Finiels was a gateway experience, of grand panoramas and vistas. Today, by contrast, was the intimate interior Cévennes: tiny lanes snaking up precipitous wooded valleys. The dense trees shading the way much of the time.
First up to the Brugès forest
And on to the Col du Sapet
On the way down to St Julien d'Arpaon I encountered a shepherd making a "transhumance" with his flock of sheep.
A magical moment, the air full of their bleating and their bells. In a minute they've scampered past up the hill.
The second climb led up to Barre-des-Cévennes, a pretty hilltop town with a few amenities, although all of them shut on a Monday morning. No matter, plenty in the saddlebag to keep me going.
Down again for a final ascent to Le Pompidou.
Here I found a perfect little unmanned campsite in which you can leave cash or pay in person at the Mairie, surrounded by handsome portraits of the Republic's presidents. No distinction was made between those who have or have not been convicted of corruption, unlike in Venice's gallery of Doges where a black drape covers the portrait of Marino Faliero, convicted of treason in 1355.
At the "camping" I had a good chat with an older couple from the Savoie who are on a short e-bike tour to see if they like it. (They do!) They'd come from Anduze this morning and told me about an excellent collection of bamboo and other exotic plants called La Bambouseraie de Prafance, established in 1856, located in Générargues, close to Anduze. I will be passing close by there on Friday when I leave the Cévennes over the Col de l'Asclier to get a train at Alès.
Some light rain in the night, along with quite a few flashes of lightning and impressively rolling thunder claps in the distance.
The forecast was for showers and possibly a storm mid morning, so I set off early to cross Mt Lozère, the high point of the Cévennes, 1,534m.
St Julien du Tournel, on the way to Le Bleymard: a ruined tower and a short tunnel.
It was a relief not to be climbing up in the heat and instead to be cooled by a thankfully brief splash of rain. However, I think the cloud of flies which materialised and followed me for the last 10km up the mountain was more annoying than the heat of previous days, or perhaps it was a useful distraction from the gradient. Plenty of walkers crossing over on a trail I could see from time to time. Was everyone plagued by flies this morning? Maybe it was that Roquefort salad I ate yesterday?
The Col de Finiels.
You can see one of the flies I befriended.
Coming over the plateau and beginning the descent, these white rocks caught the light and fleetingly looked like big sheep.
Then a long fast descent on an immaculate surface down to Le Pont de Montvert.
Today's stage has taking me from close to the source of the Lot to close to the source of the Tarn.
These circular slate tiles are substantial.
I think this Robert Louis Stevenson stuff may have got out of hand.
Last night at Mende there was a big public fête at the park near the campsite. It was getting going nicely when I returned from supper by the cathedral, and turned into something of a rave, a decent little sound system, pounding away till about 3am. Under different circumstances I'd have liked to dip a toe into that water, but last night my only desire and capability was to eat and then lie down.
As Mende was clearly way too lively a place for me, I decided to head about 20km up the road to Mt Lozère and spend my rest day at Bagnols-les-Bains, a well-equipped little town on the way up to the Lozère ski station of Le Bleymard. Campsite, bakery, épicerie, bar-tabac doubling as bistrot - - everything needed within 150m for a lazy day.
I noticed that as well as a bike repair stand, the town also has a recharging station for e-bikes. Free of charge as far as I could tell.
It's said that Sainte Énimie discovered thermal springs here whilst searching for a cure for leprosy.
A bit cooler today. On the road early to tackle the 4 big hills between here and Mende.
View from the first hill, on the way to St Laurent d'Olt
Today's scenery: lush and green and steep.
I wonder where these 2 huge rocks are headed.
At Montjézieu, after 2 of those hills, I found a bakery and very obliging Bar/Tabac for a large pot of Earl Grey. A leek quiche today, to ring the changes.
The last section wasn't very pleasant, simply on account of the weight of traffic to and around Mende. Wikipedia tells me that it has a population of 12,000, but it feels like a much bigger place on account of the big busy roads and the through traffic. It's the administrative capital of Lozère, France's least populous département
There's an impressive cathedral and historic centre, but it's a bit of a shock to the system.
I thought I was going to be leaving the Lot, but in fact it's still with me tonight in Mende, and the source is not far.
Mende sits in a steep basin, and after lunging down into the city from hill number 4, l rapidly located a glacier for a revitalising sorbet before proceeding to my campsite. Up out the other side of the basin along a busy main road, past a light industrial park and then a sawmill, with a huge lorry load of sawdust out front, adding to the choking effect of the hot breeze. To Camping de Sirvens. Fermé.
When the farmer suggested I try Camping Le Tivoli instead, I felt strangely certain of my intuition as I finished his sentence for him: "it's on the other side of town".
Tonight's apéro: a châtaigne kir. Followed by a beer from the familiar Jonte brewery of Lozère. I've made it to the Cévennes, I think?
Made in the Cotswolds. Published by Éditions Système D Ltd.
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