The Chesapeake & Ohio Canal, the fulfilment of George Washington’s dream, once carried coal from the Allegheny Mountains to the eastern seaboard.

A commercial failure – it opened in 1850, by which time the faster and more flexible railroads were already making their mark – it closed to traffic a century ago, in 1924. But its towing path lives on as a delightful walking and cycling route. Today, it links with the Great Allegheny Passage rail-trail in Cumberland, creating a 330-mile traffic-free route all the way from Pittsburgh to Washington DC.

The surface, unfortunately, is not as smooth as the GAP. It’s essentially dirt rather than limestone, and as such better suited to gravel bikes, MTBs, hybrid bikes and anything with sturdy tyres. The canal has an active volunteer force who work on surface improvements as well as maintenance of the bridge and lock structures, and since 2017 the C&O Canal National Historical Park has been systematically working on towpath upgrades. But it’s a long task and skinnier tyred bikes won’t be practical for several years yet.

Although canals themselves rarely offer wild, breathtaking scenery, this one does follow the valley of the Potomac River and as such you can enjoy more natural views when the canal emerges from its wooded cover. Photo highlights include the waterfalls of Great Falls, the beautifully antique Paw Paw Tunnel, and the little heritage towns of Harpers Ferry and Bolivar.

There are campsites along the way (don’t expect drinking water at each one) or, winningly, you can stay in a refurbished lock-keeper’s cottage. A Canal Towns programme highlights accommodation and refreshment at a series of the smaller settlements along the way.

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