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1

Derby to Buxton

The Pennine Cycleway starts gently, leaving Derby on an old railway track before branching off onto country lanes after eight miles, in the village of Etwall. Derby city centre can be confusing, so print out our map before leaving. (You could also start at Burton-on-Trent and follow NCN54 to Etwall, a similar distance.) The lanes undulate mildly before Ashbourne but nothing too strenuous.

Ashbourne itself is a very attractive town and a good place for a café stop. Here, a tunnel takes you onto the 15-mile Tissington Trail, one of Britain’s finest old railway routes. Many rail trails are buried in wooded cuttings with few views. Not this one, which gives terrific views across the Peak District on embankments. It’s a steady climb to the end of the trail at Sparklow, so factor in the need to stop now and then. Lovely little Hartington is a particularly worthwhile diversion if you have time to spare, and space in your panniers for cheese!

Eight miles on lanes, with some great descending, take you into the spa town of Buxton. Town roads are busy and winding, so take care. There’s plenty of B&Bs along the route as you enter the town centre.

Hotels

Ashbourne

from £55Compton House
from £2000Hillcrest House
from £73Lace Cottage
from £52Newton House
from £75Station Hotel
from £70The Black Cow
from £50The Lilacs
from £2000The Okeover Arms
from £75The Royal Oak
from £179Winnow Stables

Ashbourne Derbyshire

Ashbourne Nr Alton Towers

Blackwell in the Peak

Burton upon Trent Staffordshire

Burton-on-Trent

Buxton

from £119Crescent View
from £300Dharl House
from £89Dryfesdale
from £70Hawthorn farm
from £50Netherdale
from £67Staden Grange
from £62Staden Grange
from £93Swallows Rest
from £51The Old Manse
from £136The Regency
from £110Tomboys Cottage
from £140Trinity Stables
from £350Wellwood Lodge

Buxworth High Peak

from £121Wood Cottage

Chelmorton

from £0Goulday
from £85Highlow

Chelmorton

from £68Swallow Barn

Chinley

from £132Dewsnaps Frost
from £103Dewsnaps Spring

Chinley

from £2000The Lamb Inn
from £95The Lamb Inn

Clifton Ashbourne

from £236Clifton Cottage
from £106Clifton Edge

Clifton Nr. Ashbourne

from £105Holme View

Derby

Derbyshire

from £88Longnor Wood
from £13YHA Ilam Hall

Earl Sterndale

from £78Harebell Hill

Earl Sterndale Near Buxton

from £71Poppies Court

Etwall

from £2000Blenheim House

Furness Vale

Furness Vale

from £2000The Soldier Dick

Hartington

Hartington, Derbyshire

Heathcote

from £278Whitehouse Farm

High Peak

from £70Ashlea
from £2000The Old Hall Inn
from £2000The Roebuck Inn

Hilton, Derby

from £40Hilton House

Hollinsclough

from £112Spring Cottage

Hopedale

from £167Smithy Cottage

Ilam

Kettleshulme

from £105Townfield Farm

Kniveton

from £91The Creamery

Longnor

Milldale

from £153Duck Cottage

Monyash

Monyash

Nr Ashbourne

Nr Buxton

Offcote

from £96Lakeside
from £114Meadowside
from £96Woodside

Offcote Ashbourne

Parwich

Peak District

from £13YHA Ilam Hall

Sheen

Shirley

from £89The Saddlery

Shirley Ashbourne

Taddington

Taddington

Thorpe

from £85Owl Barn

Thorpe

Whaley Bridge

Whitehough

Willington

from £2000The Cottage

Near Hartington

2

Buxton to Holmfirth

The hills of Northumbria are still far off, yet this section has some of the wildest cycling on the whole route. Be warned: it’s more strenuous than you’d expect.

After climbing out of Buxton on the main road, a tough ascent on a broken road gives way to a glorious, hilly Peak lane. It’s the defining feature of this section: the erratic surfaces keep the cars out, giving us quiet cycling in rough-hewn countryside. Nothing should prohibit road bikes from passing, but you might choose to push now and then. Watch out for the hidden right-hand turn heading downhill in Whaley Bridge. The Bugsworth canal basin, soon after, is a surprisingly little-known relic of 19th century industrial ambition; the Navigation Inn here is a great place to catch your breath before the next climb.

The anonymous route past Hadfield and a muddy ascent (you’ll need to push) lead up to the railway path by the Woodhead reservoirs. Closed in the 1980s, this is Britain’s greatest lost railway, an electrified trans-Pennine route for heavy freight. It’s a little gritty and occasionally muddy, but should pose few problems. At the end, you’ll see the portal of Woodhead Tunnel, now used for National Grid cables.

The climb over the brow of the Pennines is partly uncyclable unless you’re an extreme MTBer. Persevere if you’re on a hybrid or cross bike, but on thin tyres, stick to the (very busy) main road. Fortunately it’s just 1.5 miles to the moorland lanes that take you over to Holmfirth. There’s an exhilarating descent to this, the home of Last of the Summer Wine, and with all the tea-rooms and antique shops you’d expect.

Bike shops

Buxton

Glossop

High Peak

Honley

Huddersfield

Linthwaite

New Mills

Whaley Bridge

Campsites

Campsite listings kindly provided by archiescampings
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Hotels

Birch Vale

Birch Vale, High Peak

Blackwell in the Peak

Buxton

from £119Crescent View
from £300Dharl House
from £89Dryfesdale
from £70Hawthorn farm
from £50Netherdale
from £67Staden Grange
from £62Staden Grange
from £93Swallows Rest
from £51The Old Manse
from £136The Regency
from £140Trinity Stables
from £350Wellwood Lodge

Buxworth High Peak

from £121Wood Cottage

Chelmorton

from £0Goulday
from £85Highlow

Chelmorton

from £68Swallow Barn

Chinley

from £132Dewsnaps Frost
from £103Dewsnaps Spring

Chinley

from £2000The Lamb Inn
from £95The Lamb Inn

Derbyshire

from £88Longnor Wood

Earl Sterndale

from £78Harebell Hill

Earl Sterndale Near Buxton

from £71Poppies Court

Furness Vale

Furness Vale

from £2000The Soldier Dick

Glossop

from £70Woodlands

Hade Edge

from £81Little Law

Hadfield

Halifax

Hayfield

from £131Grey Beck

Hayfield Nr. Glossop

from £0Ellers Bank

Hayfield, High Peak

from £60George Hotel

High Peak

High Peak

from £70Ashlea
from £2000Pack Horse Inn
from £2000The Kinder Lodge
from £2000The Old Hall Inn
from £2000The Roebuck Inn

Hollinsclough

from £112Spring Cottage

Holmfirth

from £65Cliffe House
from £2000Red Lion Inn
from £73Robin Cottage

Huddersfield

from £45The New Inn
from £45The New Inn

Kettleshulme

from £105Townfield Farm

Longnor

Marsden

from £674Crow Hill
from £113Crow Hill Lodge
from £128Tyas Cottage
from £242West Wing

Marsden Huddersfield

Meltham

Monyash

Monyash

Old Glossop

from £2000Bulls Head Inn

Outlane

Ripponden

Rishworth

from £80The Malthouse

Sheffield

Slaithwaite

Taddington

Taddington

Thornsett Birch Vale

Thurstonland, Holmfirth, Huddersfield

from £80Ackroyd House

Whaley Bridge

Whitehough

3

Holmfirth to Colne

This is the purest Pennine experience of the whole route: country lanes between dry-stone walls, hillside villages and mill towns, and climbing, up and down, valley to valley… starting with the haul out of Holmfirth, which is brutal.

Slaithwaite (pronounced ‘Slaw-it’) has the Huddersfield Narrow Canal running along its High Street, and a handy railway station. Over the next hill, the M62 crossing is slightly improvised, a footpath along a reservoir dam and then in a low culvert under the motorway. The ride across the moors to Calderdale, however, is more than worth it.

From Sowerby Bridge to Hebden Bridge there’s a choice of routes: NCN68 is a high-level hillside passage on country lanes, or you can follow NCN66 along the Rochdale Canal towpath. Whichever you choose, do stop in Hebden Bridge, an organic, sustainable, hippyish market town with two spectacularly good real ale pubs (the Fox & Goose and Stubbings Wharf). You can overnight here, but book in advance.

Anyone who can cycle up the cobbled bridleway out of Hebden deserves our undying respect. It leads to the postcard-perfect Heptonstall, after which the route splits: left to Burnley for 18 miles partly on a canal towpath, right for 10 miles over the moors. We’d strongly recommend the latter, a spectacular ride through isolated countryside.

They rejoin at Colne, a mill town where we encountered the clichéd but rather lovely spectacle of grubby urchins playing football on steep, cobbled streets. (Nearby Nelson is the home of Carradice, famed producers of saddlebags and panniers.) This is Lancashire, and proud of it.

Bike shops

Burnley

Colne

Halifax

Hebden Bridge

Honley

Huddersfield

Linthwaite

Nelson

Todmorden

Campsites

Barnoldswick

Blackshaw Head

Burnley

Carlecotes (01/03-31/10) (343m) >00-441226762681

Carlecotes

Crowden (26/03-02/11) (217m) >00-441457866057

Crowden

Greetland

Halifax

Holmfirth

Meltham

Mytholmroyd

Skipton

Sowerby Bridge

Trawden

Worsthorne

Campsite listings kindly provided by archiescampings
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Hotels

Barnoldswick

from £2000The Fountain Inn
from £79Weets Cottage

Barrowford

Burnley

from £128Crow Wood
from £2000Forest

Burnley, Lancashire

Colne

from £2000The Alma Inn

Foulridge

from £168Chapel House
from £97Dairy Cottage

Greetland Nr. Halifax

Hade Edge

from £81Little Law

Halifax

from £2000The Fleece Inn
from £2000The New Hobbit
from £2000Thorpe house

Hebden Bridge

from £89Croft Mill
from £129Croft Mill
from £115Lee Royd
from £75Lee View
from £59Robinhood Inn
from £95White Lion

Holmfirth

from £65Cliffe House
from £2000Red Lion Inn
from £73Robin Cottage

Horton in Craven

from £90Heights Barn

Horton-in-Craven

from £110Higher Paradise

Huddersfield

from £45The New Inn
from £45The New Inn

Kelbrook

Marsden

from £674Crow Hill
from £113Crow Hill Lodge
from £128Tyas Cottage
from £242West Wing

Marsden Huddersfield

Meltham

Nelson

Outlane

Ripponden

from £2000Woodville Smial

Rishworth

from £80The Malthouse

Salterforth Nr. Barnoldswick

from £70Cosy Cottage

Sheffield

Slaithwaite

Sowerby Bridge

Thurstonland, Holmfirth, Huddersfield

from £80Ackroyd House

Todmorden

from £2000Queen Hotel

Winewall

Near Hebden Bridge

4

Colne to Settle

The tangle of Colne, its busy roads and municipal parks, leads to Foulridge and the Leeds & Liverpool Canal. The route follows the canal towpath (beautifully upgraded) for five miles, then transfers onto lanes through green hills to Gargrave, but you could ride the whole way on the towpath unless you’re on a road bike. Spend a while in Gargrave itself, a lovely village with a famous cycling café (the Dalesman) and a superlative butchers: their pies and pasties could fortify you for the whole ride to Berwick.

As you enter the Yorkshire Dales, a false sense of security through the Aire Valley is shattered by the lung-busting climb that takes the route across to Settle. (It’s worse still in the other direction, with cobbles at Settle to sap your momentum.) It’s shared with the Way of the Roses, so you’ll probably meet cyclists coming the other way. Share a grimace, but don’t forget to enjoy the scenery.

Settle itself is a robust, welcoming town. Its local shops augmented by a branch of legendary local supermarket Booths, and it is, of course, the start of the famous Settle–Carlisle rural railway. Accommodation here is slightly pricey, and in high demand with cyclists on the Way of the Roses.

Hotels

Airton

from £125Cove View
from £125Stable Cottage
from £113The Byre

Airton

from £77Newfield Hall

Bank Newton Near Gargrave

from £81The Nook

Barley

from £96Pendle View

Barnoldswick

from £2000The Fountain Inn
from £79Weets Cottage

Barrowford

Bell Busk

from £219The Mill Lodge

Bell Busk

Burnley

from £60Barley Mow
from £128Crow Wood
from £2000Forest
from £2000The Pendle Inn

Burnley, Lancashire

Colne

from £2000The Alma Inn

Coniston Cold

from £0Tenley House

Foulridge

from £168Chapel House
from £97Dairy Cottage

Gargrave

from £96Duck Cottage
from £64River Place

Gargrave Near Skipton

Giggleswick Near Settle

from £79Ivy Cottage

Horton in Craven

from £90Heights Barn

Horton-in-Craven

from £110Higher Paradise

Kelbrook

Kirkby Malham Near Malham

from £189Bull Barn

Langcliffe Near Settle

Malham

from £259Hill Top House
from £55The Buck
from £2000The Buck Inn
from £65The Victoria

Malham, Near Skipton

from £69Beck Hall

Nelson

Nr Settle

from £95The Traddock

Otterburn

from £63The Granary

Pendle

from £2000Barley Mow

Salterforth Nr. Barnoldswick

from £70Cosy Cottage

Scalegill Mill Kirkby Malham

from £52Dipper

Settle

from £89Holly House
from £2000Royal Oak
from £127The Folly
from £2000The Stables

Skipton

from £140Love Cottage
from £58Masons Arms
from £2000The Boars Head
from £40Tudor House
from £85Tudor House
from £0YHA Malham

Wigglesworth

Winewall

5

Settle to Sedbergh

A gorgeous four-mile tour up the Ribble Valley gives way to rolling lanes with a distinct Dales character. The route originally followed a notorious cobbled, tunneled track between Austwick and Clapham, but a cycle track has now been provided along the parallel main road. Those with knobbly tyres and an appetite for bumps may want to consider the original route.

Clapham and Ingleton are tourist-friendly Dales villages with cafés and shops for local-flavoured refreshments; Sustrans has long aspired to use more of the railway trackbed at Ingleton for the Pennine Cycleway, but to no avail so far.

The ride up Kingsdale is truly magnificent, taking you high into the hills between Whernside and the Biblical-sounding Gragareth – the highest point in Lancashire. Having crossed the watershed, it’s easy cycling along Dentdale to little Sedbergh, which as “England’s booktown” is seeking to emulate the success of Hay-on-Wye.

Three miles beyond, there’s a signposted link to Kendal, gateway to the Lake District, via the Walney 2 Wear cycle route. The West Coast Main Line railway station at Oxenholme makes this a useful halt if you can’t spare the time to do the route in one go. From here onwards, the route will be unremittingly wild and rural – just what you came for.

Hotels

Carnforth

from £2000Masons Freehouse

Chapel-le-Dale

from £115Seal Parrock

Chapel-le-Dale

from £85Croft Gate

Clapham

from £127New Inn Hotel

Coniston Cold

from £0Tenley House

Cowgill Near Dent

from £0Hainingrigg

Dent

Giggleswick Near Settle

from £79Ivy Cottage

High Bentham

from £2000The Coach House

Ingleton

Ingleton

from £2000Dale House Farm
from £70Holly Grange
from £74The Cells
from £2000Wheatsheaf

Kendal

from £130Coomb View

Kirkby Lonsdale

Langcliffe Near Settle

Lower Westhouse Near Ingleton

Nr Settle

from £95The Traddock

Sedbergh

from £35Howgills Barn
from £463Oakdene
from £77Thorns Hall

Sedburgh

Settle

from £89Holly House
from £80Moor View
from £2000Royal Oak
from £127The Folly
from £2000The Stables

Skipton

from £2000The Boars Head

Wigglesworth

Yorkshire Dales

from £85Croft Gate

Near Dent

6

Sedbergh to Hartside

This section might feel familiar to anyone who's driven the M6 – but what a difference. As traffic roars along the motorway, just a few hundred yards away at times, the Pennine Cycleway follows delightful lanes skirting the edge of the Lake District. The lane from Roundthwaite, past Tebay, is particularly enjoyable.

After little Orton and its gourmet chocolate shop comes an exposed moorland ride where the winds can batter you if you’re unlucky. The steady haul eventually becomes a long, gentle descent to Appleby-in-Westmorland in the Eden valley, a friendly market town with a railway station on the Settle–Carlisle line. From here it's a gentle 20-mile meander along the valley as high crags loom up to the east; there's a bike-friendly Youth Hostel at Dufton, with a stack of Sustrans newsletters on the shelf and a good pub just down the road.

Melmerby’s famous Village Bakery gastro-café is an chance for the well-heeled cyclist to refresh and recover before the infamous ascent of Hartside. The highest point on the C2C, it’s perhaps a little less oppressive to those who’ve already conquered the Pennine Cycleway in the Peak District. The initial gradient is certainly a shock, but once you’re on the main road, you can slowly settle into the grind. There’s a greasy spoon café at the top, equally popular with cyclists, bikers and car-borne tourists.

Bike shops

Campsites

Campsite listings kindly provided by archiescampings
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Hotels

Alston

from £59Angel Inn
from £59The Angel Inn
from £52The Calf Shed
from £58The Cottage

Alston Cumbria

from £70Harbut Law

Alston, Cumbria

from £30Victoria Inn

Appleby

from £145Appleby Castle
from £80Bongate House
from £0The Limes
from £0YHA Dufton

Appleby in Westmorland, Nr Penrith, Cumbria

Appleby in Westmorland

Appleby-in-Westmorland

from £55Oak Cottage

Bleatarn

from £64The Granary
from £60The Hay Loft

Brampton

from £0Pennine View

Brampton Nr Appleby

Colby

from £0Pennine View

Colby Appleby-in-Westmorland

from £65Beck Cottage

Crackenthorpe Appleby

from £82Cruck End

Croft Ends

Cumbria & the Lakes

Dent

Dufton

from £122Dudmire

Gaisgill Lune Valley

Gamblesby

from £77Barnside

Kendal

from £130Coomb View

Kirkby Lonsdale

Kirkby Stephen

from £48Brownber Hall
from £2000Cheskin House
from £52Tranna Hill

Kirkby Stephen, Cumbria

from £125Cheskin House

Kirkhaugh

Kirkoswald

from £71The Old Manse

Knock

Langwathby Penrith

Little Asby Near Appleby-in-Westmorland

from £0Townend Farm

Long Marton

Long Marton

Long Marton Hall

from £67The Rookery

Low Nest Nr. Alston

from £80Low Nest Barn

Melmerby

from £109The Old Chapel

Newbiggin-on-Lune

from £110Cranesbill Barn

Orton

from £68Chapel Barn

Ousby Penrith

from £63Smittergill

Penrith

from £89Black Swan
from £85Black Swan
from £75Laurel House
from £115Laurel House
from £2000The George Hotel

Raisbeck Lune Valley

Sedbergh

from £35Howgills Barn
from £463Oakdene
from £77Thorns Hall

Sedburgh

Shap

Tebay

7

Hartside to Bellingham

The six-mile descent to sleepy Alston is greatly enjoyable (unless an easterly wind is blowing); don’t miss the right turn halfway down. Alston’s branch line railway was closed in the early 1980s, the last major closure in Britain, after the local road was snow-proofed. The southern section is now a preserved line; cyclists follow a lovely minor road on the north bank of the valley, where you might see red squirrels.

After Slaggyford, though, the cycleway takes over, making a very pleasant railway path. There’s one brief interruption at Lambley, where a house-owner has refused to allow bikes through; exasperatingly, this requires a steep climb and prevents through passage over the impressive (Sustrans-owned) Lambley Viaduct. Let’s hope they move house!

Haltwhistle, with its butchers and supermarket, is an essential stop; there are precious few facilities in the next 25 miles. It’s a fairly anonymous ride as far as Bardon Mill, but from there you start climbing, past Hadrian’s Wall and the useful hostel and pub at Once Brewed. A few miles further on, the road gives out, with a lone cycle route sign urging you on into the wilderness.

It’s just under 20 miles between Once Brewed and Bellingham, and you’ll barely see a soul. The track through Wark Forest is wild, isolated, and glorious. The tarmac does return, but traffic doesn’t. Tiny farmsteads punctuate the gated road until your final descent into Bellingham, a little oasis of a town where the few accommodation and eating opportunities seem like the big city.

Bike shops

Campsites

Campsite listings kindly provided by archiescampings
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Hotels

Alston

from £59Angel Inn
from £59The Angel Inn
from £52The Calf Shed
from £58The Cottage

Alston Cumbria

from £70Harbut Law

Alston, Cumbria

from £30Victoria Inn

Bardon Mill

Bardon Mill

from £68The Snug

Bellingham

from £61The Bowery

Bellingham

from £0Roseneath

East Twice Brewed

from £120Stoneacre Barn

Gamblesby

from £77Barnside

Greenhead

Hadrian's Wall

from £10YHA Once Brewed

Haltwhistle

from £2000Bridge House B&B
from £66Glendale Mews
from £0Hall Meadows
from £2000Hillis Close Farm
from £70The Grey Bull
from £2000Wydon Farm B&B

Hexham

from £43Bay Horse Inn
from £2000Bridgeford Farm
from £2000The Bowes Hotel
from £2000Twice Brewed Inn
from £40Yellow House

Kirkhaugh

Kirkoswald

from £71The Old Manse

Knarsdale

from £70The Wallaces

Langwathby Penrith

Low Nest Nr. Alston

from £80Low Nest Barn

Melkridge Haltwhistle

Melkridge

Melmerby

from £109The Old Chapel

Newcastle upon Tyne

Northumberland

Otterburn

from £88Castlelea
from £115Magnolia Lodge
from £2000The Coach House

Otterburn Nr. Bellingham

from £165Leafy Run

Ousby Penrith

from £63Smittergill

Slaggyford

from £85Snope Cottage
8

Bellingham to Alwinton

There are two routes to choose from here. One is well-signposted, entirely on tarmac, gently undulating and pretty. The other is unsignposted, requires a phone call beforehand, partly surfaced with rough gravel… and it’s stunning.

The standard Pennine Cycleway, signposted NCN 68 as ever, follows Redesdale towards the perfectly picturesque village of Elsdon with its castle, tower house, and tea-rooms. The climb out is the only significant one on this braid before you reach Alwinton.

The upland route is much hillier, but unforgettable. It’s not signposted, so you’ll need to print this map before you go. You leave Bellingham on the Reivers Route (NCN 10) and National Byway, but part company at Lanehead, heading north. Tiny roads thread their way towards Redesdale Forest, slowly climbing all the while. A curious wooden signpost points the way to the remote Presbyterian chapel of Birdhope Craig, now closed. But we plunge into deep forest at Gibshiel, cresting the fell on a gravel forestry track before finally descending into the dale, where an awkward crossing via a campsite (you’ll need to lift your bike over the stile) gets you to the main road.

From here the route passes through Otterburn Ranges. To check the army isn’t shooting that day, consult the firing times calendar when planning your trip, and phone the MoD the day before (01830 520569) to double-check. A relentless climb (turning left near the top) brings you to the top of the Cheviots, half a mile from the Scottish border. But we’re not crossing over to Scotland yet; instead, the route descends through Upper Coquetdale in perhaps the most glorious ten miles of cycle route anywhere in Britain. Hyperbole? We don’t think so.

Bike shops

Campsites

Campsite listings kindly provided by archiescampings
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Hotels

Bellingham

from £61The Bowery

Bellingham

from £0Roseneath

Elsdon

from £86The Hemmel

Elsdon

Hepple

from £72Beech Cottage

Hexham

from £43Bay Horse Inn
from £2000Bridgeford Farm
from £40Yellow House

Morpeth

Newcastle upon Tyne

Northumberland

Otterburn

from £88Castlelea
from £115Magnolia Lodge
from £2000The Coach House

Otterburn Nr. Bellingham

from £165Leafy Run
9

Alwinton to Wooler

The Pennine Cycleway is at its muddiest over the next few miles. Unless you’re riding in a dry summer, consider taking an alternative route on the minor roads to the east, rejoining at Biddlestone or after Netherton. It’s an amiable, quiet ride though, with few settlements: little Powburn, just off the route, has B&Bs, pubs and stores. The Pennine Cycleway bypasses it using a footbridge between the confusingly named Branton and Brandon, damaged by floods but restored in 2010. We don’t recommend using the ford here.

But fords are very much the order of the day from here to Wooler. The others are cyclable in normal conditions, with little footbridges should you feel nervous. Very quiet roads alternate with farm tracks until the sleepy town of Wooler. This leg is a good choice for your final overnight stop before Berwick.

Bike shops

Campsites

Campsite listings kindly provided by archiescampings
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Hotels

Akeld Wooler

from £96Perriwinkle
from £96Primula Patch

Berwick upon Tweed

from £2000The Shepherds Hut

Berwick-upon-Tweed

from £2000The Estate House

Callaly Near Alnwick

from £72Dene Cottage

Cornhill on Tweed

from £2000The Blue Bell Inn
from £2000Hay Farm House

Cornhill-on-Tweed

from £2000The Coach House

Crookham

Etal

from £60The Cottage

Ford

Hepple

from £105The Barn

Hepple

from £72Beech Cottage

Hetton

from £125Yeavering Barn

Milfield Hill

from £186Mill Barn

Milfield Hill Nr Wooler

from £90Airidh Bhan

Milfield Hill Wooler

from £192Till Cottage

Morpeth

Northumberland

Whittingham Alnwick

from £56Dower House
from £268The East Wing

Wooler

from £62Casa Nostro
from £43Cheviot View
from £202Fir Tree Lodge
from £196Graces Dairy
from £197The Old Forge
from £0The Old Mill

Wooler, Northumberland

from £75Pantile Lodge
10

Wooler to Berwick-upon-Tweed

From here, it’s a home run to Berwick. There are no more monster climbs, though the Pennine Cycleway still has a few sharp surprises in store. Almost all the route is on country lanes, with an enjoyable short burst of riverside path at Etal. Etal itself is a rambling estate with castle, pottery and an uncommonly good café, and makes an excellent lunch stop.

At Norham, the Pennine Cycleway meets NCN 1 (the North Sea Cycle Route) for the final 10 miles to Berwick – and promptly throws a nasty short hill at you, the edge of the Tweed valley. It’s worth it for the lovely river crossing at Union Bridge, though, the oldest suspension bridge to still carry road traffic. Here you cross into Scotland for a five-mile slog along a mildly busy B-road… but the end is in sight.

Berwick railway station is the formal end of the route, with a Sustrans signpost pointing the way back to Derby, 350 miles away. But carry on into the town, ride out to the coast, and savour the achievement. You’ve conquered the ultimate challenge of the National Cycle Network.

Bike shops

Campsites

Berwick upon Tweed

Chatton

East Ord

Wooler

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Hotels

Akeld Wooler

from £96Perriwinkle
from £96Primula Patch

Berwick upon Tweed

from £70Kings Head
from £85Mill Wharf
from £2000Caroline House
from £2000Mansergh House
from £2000The Old School
from £2000The Shepherds Hut

Berwick-upon-Tweed

from £100Stow House
from £2000The Rob Roy Inn
from £70The Walls B&B
from £10YHA Berwick
from £10YHA Berwick
from £98Aidens
from £122Bede'S
from £75Cuthberts
from £78On The Prom
from £120West Coates
from £2000The Estate House

Cornhill on Tweed

from £2000Hay Farm House

Ford

Foulden

Hetton

from £125Yeavering Barn

Horncliffe

from £125The Old Church

Lamberton

from £91Maple Lodge
from £134Stonebank House

Northumberland

Paxton

from £74Tweed Cottage

Powburn

Scremerston Berwick-upon-Tweed

Spittal

from £74Sea Cottage

Spittal Berwick-upon-Tweed

from £78Far Horizons

Spittal

Steading Berwick-upon-Tweed

Tweedmouth

from £74Dock Road

Wooler

from £62Casa Nostro
from £43Cheviot View
from £202Fir Tree Lodge
from £196Graces Dairy
from £197The Old Forge
from £0The Old Mill

Wooler, Northumberland

from £75Pantile Lodge