This long-distance road touring route will one day link the Mediterranean at Montpellier with the Loire valley. For now, it follows the valley of the Allier downstream from Langogne, past Clermont Ferrand, to its confluence with the Loire near Nevers.

The route is entirely on-road, mostly quiet D roads or even smaller lanes; the narrow roads hugging the side of the upper Allier valley are simply stunning, with non-stop views across this hilly country. Where there’s more traffic, generally cycle lanes have been provided. As such, it’s a route best suited to the dedicated cycle tourist who enjoys exploring la France profonde.

Though the route follows the valley where possible, occasionally the roads divert from the Allier, and that means a little more climbing. In particular, the southernmost stretch from Langogne will test your climbing legs until you join the valley near Alleyras. Further on, the climb up to the Col de la Croix des Gardes is another workout – unsportingly, the A75 autoroute monopolises the valley floor here.

There’s much to see in this hilly country, with châteaux and little villages nestling in the clefts of the landscape. Heavily wooded groves break out into wide vistas on this ever-twisting route.

After Pont du Château, the terrain becomes much easier. The gentle valley riding passes the historic spa town of Vichy on its way to the local wine capital of Saint Pourçain sur Sioule, which has a real small-town charm.

Moulins is a must-stop, its cathedral at the centre of a maze of medieval streets. But the little villages along the way also offer much to the explorer, such as the old river port of Le Veurdre.

This is already an outstanding route, a good candidate for a cycle tour from south to north (or vice versa), and will become unmissable when the continuation to Montpellier is complete.

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